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Woman surfs biggest wave of the year


JFK-1

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33 minutes ago, Dawnrazor said:

Quite amazing that, not that it's a woman but that's it's anyone!!!! The power in that wave is immense, I'd love to have the balls to surf a wave that size.

Absolutely love stuff like this. The power in waves and currents are phenomenal. In years gone by I worked at Herriot watt doing research on waves and the effects they have on ships and offshore structures 

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36 minutes ago, 80bob said:

Absolutely love stuff like this. The power in waves and currents are phenomenal. In years gone by I worked at Herriot watt doing research on waves and the effects they have on ships and offshore structures 


A friend of mine once got into potentially deadly trouble just yards off a beach due to not a current but a tide. Same thing in some respects I suppose. We were on a beach in Newquay, Cornwall, called Fistral.

This beach is notable as the site of international surfing competitions due to the impressive waves coming in there. The wave heights are due to Cornwall being below Ireland which takes much of the power out of waves hitting the rest of the West coast of Britain.

When the tide is coming in the waves have rolled all the way across the entire Atlantic with nothing in the way to take the sting out of it. But my friends issue arose when the tide was going out.

He decided he was going for a swim while I stayed lazing on the beach from where I looked up a couple of times and saw him maybe just 20 to 30 yards out swimming in. But it just never registered when I looked the second time that he hadn't moved in any from the first time I looked.

This guy was a very strong swimmer and he found himself getting nowhere while actually being pulled further out despite trying to swim in. He was in that struggle for maybe 15 minutes or so just to make little more than 20 yards progress to get his feet on sand.

He said it took a massive effort to make that 20 yards and he thought more than once i'm not going to make it. I'm just 20 yards from the beach, everybody can see me, and i'm going to drown here right in front of them.

People should keep that in mind on such beaches when the tide is going out, It's a terrific force. I felt it myself before he took his swim by simply paddling in to around knee deep.

A wave would come in then when the water was receding it was difficult just to stay standing because it's pulling your legs away from under you as well as sucking the very sand away from under your feet.

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52 minutes ago, JFK-1 said:


A friend of mine once got into potentially deadly trouble just yards off a beach due to not a current but a tide. Same thing in some respects I suppose. We were on a beach in Newquay, Cornwall, called Fistral.

This beach is notable as the site of international surfing competitions due to the impressive waves coming in there. The wave heights are due to Cornwall being below Ireland which takes much of the power out of waves hitting the rest of the West coast of Britain.

When the tide is coming in the waves have rolled all the way across the entire Atlantic with nothing in the way to take the sting out of it. But my friends issue arose when the tide was going out.

He decided he was going for a swim while I stayed lazing on the beach from where I looked up a couple of times and saw him maybe just 20 to 30 yards out swimming in. But it just never registered when I looked the second time that he hadn't moved in any from the first time I looked.

This guy was a very strong swimmer and he found himself getting nowhere while actually being pulled further out despite trying to swim in. He was in that struggle for maybe 15 minutes or so just to make little more than 20 yards progress to get his feet on sand.

He said it took a massive effort to make that 20 yards and he thought more than once i'm not going to make it. I'm just 20 yards from the beach, everybody can see me, and i'm going to drown here right in front of them.

People should keep that in mind on such beaches when the tide is going out, It's a terrific force. I felt it myself before he took his swim by simply paddling in to around knee deep.

A wave would come in then when the water was receding it was difficult just to stay standing because it's pulling your legs away from under you as well as sucking the very sand away from under your feet.

Pretty sure lots get caught out with this. It’s not just the sea but the forces in rivers are where people often get caught out , specially with a large volume of water going through a narrowing in the river

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millerjames398

I watched a doco on Netflix about guys chasing giant waves, to my surprise its Portugal in winter, that creates the best conditions, having to be towed on the the back of a jet ski, to the top of the waves, to then ride them, absolute balls of steel..or a death wish😆

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I notice that the gif I linked to has been removed. So made my own from the video clip. Apparently it's the biggest wave a woman has ever been filmed surfing.

surf-gif.gif

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4 hours ago, 80bob said:

Absolutely love stuff like this. The power in waves and currents are phenomenal. In years gone by I worked at Herriot watt doing research on waves and the effects they have on ships and offshore structures 

I worked for six months at the Admiralty Marine Technology Establishment in Dunfermline on a student placement in 1983 writing programs to analyse the impact of waves on Royal Navy warships. I became quite an expert in sagging and hogging and Fourier Analyis. 😜
 

 

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, JFK-1 said:


A friend of mine once got into potentially deadly trouble just yards off a beach due to not a current but a tide. Same thing in some respects I suppose. We were on a beach in Newquay, Cornwall, called Fistral.

This beach is notable as the site of international surfing competitions due to the impressive waves coming in there. The wave heights are due to Cornwall being below Ireland which takes much of the power out of waves hitting the rest of the West coast of Britain.

When the tide is coming in the waves have rolled all the way across the entire Atlantic with nothing in the way to take the sting out of it. But my friends issue arose when the tide was going out.

He decided he was going for a swim while I stayed lazing on the beach from where I looked up a couple of times and saw him maybe just 20 to 30 yards out swimming in. But it just never registered when I looked the second time that he hadn't moved in any from the first time I looked.

This guy was a very strong swimmer and he found himself getting nowhere while actually being pulled further out despite trying to swim in. He was in that struggle for maybe 15 minutes or so just to make little more than 20 yards progress to get his feet on sand.

He said it took a massive effort to make that 20 yards and he thought more than once i'm not going to make it. I'm just 20 yards from the beach, everybody can see me, and i'm going to drown here right in front of them.

People should keep that in mind on such beaches when the tide is going out, It's a terrific force. I felt it myself before he took his swim by simply paddling in to around knee deep.

A wave would come in then when the water was receding it was difficult just to stay standing because it's pulling your legs away from under you as well as sucking the very sand away from under your feet.

 

Ah yes, been there. Not as extreme an example, but it took what felt like forever to get back to shore. To say I was scared is an understatement.

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1 hour ago, redjambo said:

 

Ah yes, been there. Not as extreme an example, but it took what felt like forever to get back to shore. To say I was scared is an understatement.

Yip. And I also had, a wee 6 ft wave I dove/dived into flipping me about as if I was in a washing machine. I then decided I'd stick to the pool. 

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13 hours ago, davemclaren said:

I worked for six months at the Admiralty Marine Technology Establishment in Dunfermline on a student placement in 1983 writing programs to analyse the impact of waves on Royal Navy warships. I became quite an expert in sagging and hogging and Fourier Analyis. 😜
 

 

 

 

 

Ha mind it well   . We used to record live wave data from alwyn north Platform and replicate the seas in a scaled down version with  vessels and floating platforms On a similar scale and monitor there loadings and movement In the wave basin. A big kid with bigger boats in a big bath

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21 hours ago, 80bob said:

Absolutely love stuff like this. The power in waves and currents are phenomenal. In years gone by I worked at Herriot watt doing research on waves and the effects they have on ships and offshore structures 

My final year research project there was the effect of motion on separation vessels for offshore platforms. Spent many a happy night in the John Coulson building labs playing with the big moving rigs :)

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21 hours ago, JFK-1 said:


A friend of mine once got into potentially deadly trouble just yards off a beach due to not a current but a tide. Same thing in some respects I suppose. We were on a beach in Newquay, Cornwall, called Fistral.

This beach is notable as the site of international surfing competitions due to the impressive waves coming in there. The wave heights are due to Cornwall being below Ireland which takes much of the power out of waves hitting the rest of the West coast of Britain.

When the tide is coming in the waves have rolled all the way across the entire Atlantic with nothing in the way to take the sting out of it. But my friends issue arose when the tide was going out.

He decided he was going for a swim while I stayed lazing on the beach from where I looked up a couple of times and saw him maybe just 20 to 30 yards out swimming in. But it just never registered when I looked the second time that he hadn't moved in any from the first time I looked.

This guy was a very strong swimmer and he found himself getting nowhere while actually being pulled further out despite trying to swim in. He was in that struggle for maybe 15 minutes or so just to make little more than 20 yards progress to get his feet on sand.

He said it took a massive effort to make that 20 yards and he thought more than once i'm not going to make it. I'm just 20 yards from the beach, everybody can see me, and i'm going to drown here right in front of them.

People should keep that in mind on such beaches when the tide is going out, It's a terrific force. I felt it myself before he took his swim by simply paddling in to around knee deep.

A wave would come in then when the water was receding it was difficult just to stay standing because it's pulling your legs away from under you as well as sucking the very sand away from under your feet.

Pretty much the same thing happened to me and a mate on Mawgan Porth beach in the 80's. We were ****** but a mate came out on a rope that kind of separated a river from the sea with wee buoys attached to it.  He swam from that and grabbed one of us at a time. I was, honestly maybe a minute away from giving up. I'm not a bad swimmer and was a lot younger then but for every three or four strokes I took towards the beach the waves took me five or six out. 

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22 hours ago, JFK-1 said:


A friend of mine once got into potentially deadly trouble just yards off a beach due to not a current but a tide. Same thing in some respects I suppose. We were on a beach in Newquay, Cornwall, called Fistral.

This beach is notable as the site of international surfing competitions due to the impressive waves coming in there. The wave heights are due to Cornwall being below Ireland which takes much of the power out of waves hitting the rest of the West coast of Britain.

When the tide is coming in the waves have rolled all the way across the entire Atlantic with nothing in the way to take the sting out of it. But my friends issue arose when the tide was going out.

He decided he was going for a swim while I stayed lazing on the beach from where I looked up a couple of times and saw him maybe just 20 to 30 yards out swimming in. But it just never registered when I looked the second time that he hadn't moved in any from the first time I looked.

This guy was a very strong swimmer and he found himself getting nowhere while actually being pulled further out despite trying to swim in. He was in that struggle for maybe 15 minutes or so just to make little more than 20 yards progress to get his feet on sand.

He said it took a massive effort to make that 20 yards and he thought more than once i'm not going to make it. I'm just 20 yards from the beach, everybody can see me, and i'm going to drown here right in front of them.

People should keep that in mind on such beaches when the tide is going out, It's a terrific force. I felt it myself before he took his swim by simply paddling in to around knee deep.

A wave would come in then when the water was receding it was difficult just to stay standing because it's pulling your legs away from under you as well as sucking the very sand away from under your feet.

 

A Rip Tide/current?

 

To escape ,think your meant to swim parallel to the beach.

Easier said that done when your panicking i guess.

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1 hour ago, Tott said:

 

A Rip Tide/current?

 

To escape ,think your meant to swim parallel to the beach.

Easier said that done when your panicking i guess.

 

And don't waste energy trying to swim against it, let it take you away from shore, it won't go far before it loses it's force and you can then start swimming parallel to the shore.

Pretty sure that's what the lifeguards in Sydney told me.

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J.T.F.Robertson
On 12/09/2020 at 15:34, JFK-1 said:


A friend of mine once got into potentially deadly trouble just yards off a beach due to not a current but a tide. Same thing in some respects I suppose. We were on a beach in Newquay, Cornwall, called Fistral.

This beach is notable as the site of international surfing competitions due to the impressive waves coming in there. The wave heights are due to Cornwall being below Ireland which takes much of the power out of waves hitting the rest of the West coast of Britain.

When the tide is coming in the waves have rolled all the way across the entire Atlantic with nothing in the way to take the sting out of it. But my friends issue arose when the tide was going out.

He decided he was going for a swim while I stayed lazing on the beach from where I looked up a couple of times and saw him maybe just 20 to 30 yards out swimming in. But it just never registered when I looked the second time that he hadn't moved in any from the first time I looked.

This guy was a very strong swimmer and he found himself getting nowhere while actually being pulled further out despite trying to swim in. He was in that struggle for maybe 15 minutes or so just to make little more than 20 yards progress to get his feet on sand.

He said it took a massive effort to make that 20 yards and he thought more than once i'm not going to make it. I'm just 20 yards from the beach, everybody can see me, and i'm going to drown here right in front of them.

People should keep that in mind on such beaches when the tide is going out, It's a terrific force. I felt it myself before he took his swim by simply paddling in to around knee deep.

A wave would come in then when the water was receding it was difficult just to stay standing because it's pulling your legs away from under you as well as sucking the very sand away from under your feet.

 

Been there. Went down to Newquay three years on the trot way back in the old Ska days. Would love to revisit for old times sake.

Used to be a surf shop there called Bilbo. 

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