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jack D and coke

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I had a look at some of them in the Omega boutique on Regent St last week.

Some of the chronographs are too chunky looking which is why I decided to go for one with just a date function.

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I had a look at some of them in the Omega boutique on Regent St last week.

Some of the chronographs are too chunky looking which is why I decided to go for one with just a date function.

 

Yeah they're definitely not for everyone's taste.

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Is it worth waiting till January to buy? I was under the impression they don't do sales as such and it's apparent that most of the mainstream dealers all keep their prices very similar.

 

A bit like energy companies. :)

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I've dipped into this thread a couple of times, so I'm not sure whether anyone has mentioned the up keep costs of owning a "name" watch. I bought a Rolex Datejust Oyster about 20 years ago from Laing, the Jeweler, in Hanover Street. Rolex recommended that the watch be serviced every couple of years. The old story of special unique oils were mentioned and the cost was 50 pounds.

 

After a couple of moves, I now live in New Zealand and the cost of the service is now at least 200 pounds. For the equivalent I could buy a decent Christopher Ward every couple of years. I'm not aware of what people like Omega, Breitling etc charge but certainly for Rolex buyers servicing costs are a significant outlay.

 

So much so that I've decided to sell my Datejust and buy a C Ward or a Hamilton.

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Captain_Peacock

I've dipped into this thread a couple of times, so I'm not sure whether anyone has mentioned the up keep costs of owning a "name" watch. I bought a Rolex Datejust Oyster about 20 years ago from Laing, the Jeweler, in Hanover Street. Rolex recommended that the watch be serviced every couple of years. The old story of special unique oils were mentioned and the cost was 50 pounds.

 

After a couple of moves, I now live in New Zealand and the cost of the service is now at least 200 pounds. For the equivalent I could buy a decent Christopher Ward every couple of years. I'm not aware of what people like Omega, Breitling etc charge but certainly for Rolex buyers servicing costs are a significant outlay.

 

So much so that I've decided to sell my Datejust and buy a C Ward or a Hamilton.

Is their an issue with your Datejust, is it keeping good time?

 

I realise that dive watches used for their intended purpose need a regular service as the integrity of the seals is key, other than that I'm in the if it's not broken don't fix it camp.

 

In general a watch with an in house movement is going to cost more to have serviced than one with a catalogue movement. If the C Ward, Hamilton is automatic it's still going to need a service eventually just probably going to cost you less to have it done.

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I've dipped into this thread a couple of times, so I'm not sure whether anyone has mentioned the up keep costs of owning a "name" watch. I bought a Rolex Datejust Oyster about 20 years ago from Laing, the Jeweler, in Hanover Street. Rolex recommended that the watch be serviced every couple of years. The old story of special unique oils were mentioned and the cost was 50 pounds.

 

After a couple of moves, I now live in New Zealand and the cost of the service is now at least 200 pounds. For the equivalent I could buy a decent Christopher Ward every couple of years. I'm not aware of what people like Omega, Breitling etc charge but certainly for Rolex buyers servicing costs are a significant outlay.

 

So much so that I've decided to sell my Datejust and buy a C Ward or a Hamilton.

 

Im pretty sure the service is nearer ?400 these days

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Guys, behave. That OPO liquid metal is about as beautiful a timepiece as you will find. One of Omegas best ever. Yeah it's on the big side but just look at it.

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Guys, behave. That OPO liquid metal is about as beautiful a timepiece as you will find. One of Omegas best ever. Yeah it's on the big side but just look at it.

:spoton:

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Tried on a couple of rolex's at the w/end and they did'nt really wow me, also went off the idea of an automatic, as I cant wear a decent watch to my work and will only wear it out at the w/end and it would piss me off having to reset it every w/end, also I like my watches to be bang on time, so i have started at looking at quartz watches, tried this one on on Saturday and really liked it, whats the experts opinion on this? is it a decent buy ? managed to get Laings to knock ?100 of it as well.

 

cheers for any info :thumbsup:

 

http://www.beaverbrooks.co.uk/0006617/Omega-Seamaster-Aqua-Terra-Mens-Watch/p

 

0006617_0_Product.jpg

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Tried on a couple of rolex's at the w/end and they did'nt really wow me, also went off the idea of an automatic, as I cant wear a decent watch to my work and will only wear it out at the w/end and it would piss me off having to reset it every w/end, also I like my watches to be bang on time, so i have started at looking at quartz watches, tried this one on on Saturday and really liked it, whats the experts opinion on this? is it a decent buy ? managed to get Laings to knock ?100 of it as well.

 

cheers for any info :thumbsup:

 

http://www.beaverbro...ra-Mens-Watch/p

 

0006617_0_Product.jpg

 

It's expensive for a Quartz. I'd get an automatic but that's just me. I also wouldn't buy it from Beaverbrooks or Laings.

These guys have it for way cheaper.

http://www.iconicwatches.co.uk/omega-seamaster-aqua-terra-150-m-quartz-231-10-39-60-06-79.html

I've never used them but I intend to.

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It's expensive for a Quartz. I'd get an automatic but that's just me. I also wouldn't buy it from Beaverbrooks or Laings.

These guys have it for way cheaper.

http://www.iconicwatches.co.uk/omega-seamaster-aqua-terra-150-m-quartz-231-10-39-60-06-79.html

I've never used them but I intend to.

 

Those watches appear to be different. Is one just a newer model?

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Im pretty sure the service is nearer ?400 these days

 

I'm sure that you're right and even more reason to factor this in to ownership.

 

Is their an issue with your Datejust, is it keeping good time?

 

I realise that dive watches used for their intended purpose need a regular service as the integrity of the seals is key, other than that I'm in the if it's not broken don't fix it camp.

 

In general a watch with an in house movement is going to cost more to have serviced than one with a catalogue movement. If the C Ward, Hamilton is automatic it's still going to need a service eventually just probably going to cost you less to have it done.

 

As a result of an accident my left arm doesn't move to well. This means that the perpetual rotor self-winder winds down and the watch regularly stops. This has become more common which I expect is a function of its need for a service.

 

I take your point regarding the "not broken don't fix it" angle and the fact that the CWs or Hamiltons will need servicing at some point, however, my point is the cost of the service. This has reached a cost point where buying a new CW every few years is equal to or less than the cost of servicing my Datejust and also negates the need for servicing a CW or equivalent.

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Go Patek.

 

As an aside, when I was buying my Datejust 20 odd years ago, I was offered a Patek Phillipe. It was the gold case, 15 minute chimer. Laing's told me it would cost me 30 000 pounds and, as it was handmade it would be ready for pickup in 2 years. I saw the same watch on sale recently. If I had bought it, I could have sold it today, bought a medium sized farm in New Zealand and still had much more in the bank than the original cost.

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Captain_Peacock

I'm sure that you're right and even more reason to factor this in to ownership.

 

 

 

As a result of an accident my left arm doesn't move to well. This means that the perpetual rotor self-winder winds down and the watch regularly stops. This has become more common which I expect is a function of its need for a service.

 

I take your point regarding the "not broken don't fix it" angle and the fact that the CWs or Hamiltons will need servicing at some point, however, my point is the cost of the service. This has reached a cost point where buying a new CW every few years is equal to or less than the cost of servicing my Datejust and also negates the need for servicing a CW or equivalent.

 

I can't disagree with the points you've made. I suspect you are correct and the watch needs some attention, don't want to sound like I'm taking the piss but I assume you have tried wearing the watch on you're right arm?

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I can't disagree with the points you've made. I suspect you are correct and the watch needs some attention, don't want to sound like I'm taking the piss but I assume you have tried wearing the watch on you're right arm?

 

No piss taken, thanks for the suggestion.

 

I have tried the right arm, but because of the nature of my injury I don't really turn when sleeping, so it doesn't matter what arm the watch is on, its usually stopped when I wake up. I suspect that the movement has become "sticky" resulting in premature stopping, if I can use such a phrase.

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Captain_Peacock

No piss taken, thanks for the suggestion.

 

I have tried the right arm, but because of the nature of my injury I don't really turn when sleeping, so it doesn't matter what arm the watch is on, its usually stopped when I wake up. I suspect that the movement has become "sticky" resulting in premature stopping, if I can use such a phrase.

 

I was fairly certain wearing the watch on your right hand wouldn't be a solution, I'd imagine the movement required to power the watch would need to pretty minimal. I suggested wearing it on the right arm as it cost nothing to try.

 

For me as long as the watch is accurate, reliable & robust I'm happy, many catalogue movements are.

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Been following this thread for a while and it's great stuff. I started taking an interest in watches a few years back and can understand why people become hooked. Comparing a quartz with an automatic is like comparing a Toyota and a Ferrari if you know what I mean.

 

I wondered if anyone had ever owned a Panerai watch? A bit pricey but they look great. Wear a Carrera myself which I love - works for me anyway.

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Yeah, I'm sure Dave Gorman had something about that in one of his shows.

 

I believe the reason given is because it tends to 'frame' the branding.

 

It it not because the clock hands being in the 10.10 position is deemed happy, like a smiley face, by the advertising people. Were as when they are in the 20.20 position its deemed sad. I think Dave Gorman pointed out that HTC used 10.10 in the advertisements for their mobile phones even although the clock used on their mobile phone homescreens are digital.

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Where about out of interest and did you need an appointment?

laings on Frederick street, didn't need an appointment just walked in, there are 2 laings on that street just a few doors apart, it was the one nearest George street I tried them on
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Captain_Peacock

laings on Frederick street, didn't need an appointment just walked in, there are 2 laings on that street just a few doors apart, it was the one nearest George street I tried them on

If you don't mind me asking what did you try on & what did you think?

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If you don't mind me asking what did you try on & what did you think?

Tried on a couple of rolex's at the w/end and they did'nt really wow me, also went off the idea of an automatic, as I cant wear a decent watch to my work and will only wear it out at the w/end and it would piss me off having to reset it every w/end, also I like my watches to be bang on time, so i have started at looking at quartz watches, tried this one on on Saturday and really liked it, whats the experts opinion on this? is it a decent buy ? managed to get Laings to knock ?100 of it as well.

 

cheers for any info :thumbsup:

 

http://www.beaverbrooks.co.uk/0006617/Omega-Seamaster-Aqua-Terra-Mens-Watch/p

 

0006617_0_Product.jpg

As above post, Tried on a Rolex date and a date just, they just didn't blow me away for that kind of money, as I will only wear the watch at the w/end I have started leaning towards a quartz and really liked this omega, any advise much appreciated :thumbsup:

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Captain_Peacock

 

As above post, Tried on a Rolex date and a date just, they just didn't blow me away for that kind of money, as I will only wear the watch at the w/end I have started leaning towards a quartz and really liked this omega, any advise much appreciated :thumbsup:

 

Sorry I didn't clock your earlier post.

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Have you had a look at the no date sub?

 

Each to their own & all that but I think the version minus cyclops is quite appealing.

 

I'm the opposite.

 

I prefer the cyclops.

 

I can see why folk don't like it though.

 

For me it's like the gap in Madonnas teeth. Would seem wrong without it. It's just the way it should be. Iconic. :lol:

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Daydream Believer

I had a look at some of them in the Omega boutique on Regent St last week.

Some of the chronographs are too chunky looking which is why I decided to go for one with just a date function.

 

I think all modern watches are huge! I've got a pretty normal sized wrist and I'm wearing a seamaster from about '91 right now. It's got a 34mm case which was probably normal in those days but would be pretty small now.

 

I wonder what the movements look like now. Have they got bigger, or is there just lots of space inside the case?

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Captain_Peacock

I'm the opposite.

 

I prefer the cyclops.

 

I can see why folk don't like it though.

 

For me it's like the gap in Madonnas teeth. Would seem wrong without it. It's just the way it should be. Iconic. :lol:

 

Each to their own & all that, the no date version seems more symetrical to me but I understand many don't feel the same way. The Daytona is out of reach for me but if I had to plump for a rolex it would have to be:

 

A vintage no date sub, if it's good enough for Steve McQueen it's good enough for me (ref on the left with after market strap) http://www.hodinkee....r-40-years.html

 

 

If I was taking one with Cyclops I'd plump for the Explorer II, I have no need to track 3 time zones at once but it just looks good to me.

rolex-216670-explorer-ii-white-angle-1.jpg

 

If you can live with the service costs a Rolex sub is a decent choice IMO, I think you can pick up a decent used one with box, papers and hang tags P2P for around 3.5K - 4K, not sure how much AD's will give you on that ref in terms of a discount.

 

2 decent places to have look through if you have the time:-

https://www.rolexforums.com/

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f23/

 

You'll get lots of decent advice and info on the forums posted above.

Edited by Captain_Peacock
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Captain_Peacock

 

 

For me it's like the gap in Madonnas teeth. Would seem wrong without it. It's just the way it should be. Iconic. :lol:

 

I can't for the life of me find it now but at some point I read a story on a forum where some guy had been left a Rolex with a Cyclops by a family member. He decided he didn't like the Cyclops so took it to his shed and removed it with a selection of DIY tools & posted before / after photos, it's fair to say a few of the forum members were apopletic about the whole affair.

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Each to their own & all that, the no date version seems more symetrical to me but I understand many don't feel the same way. The Daytona is out of reach for me but if I had to plump for a rolex it would have to be:

 

A vintage no date sub, if it's good enough for Steve McQueen it's good enough for me (ref on the left with after market strap) http://www.hodinkee....r-40-years.html

 

 

If I was taking one with Cyclops I'd plump for the Explorer II, I have no need to track 3 time zones at once but it just looks good to me.

rolex-216670-explorer-ii-white-angle-1.jpg

 

If you can live with the service costs a Rolex sub is a decent choice IMO, I think you can pick up a decent used one with box, papers and hang tags P2P for around 3.5K - 4K, not sure how much AD's will give you on that ref in terms of a discount.

 

2 decent places to have look through if you have the time:-

https://www.rolexforums.com/

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f23/

 

You'll get lots of decent advice and info on the forums posted above.

A used date sub is what I plan on getting next year so have been keeping an eye on them and good ones tend to sit around ?4k or a little above. From what I understand, dates hold their value a bit better than no dates. I like both versions and would be happy with either but I have a preference for the date.

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Captain_Peacock

A used date sub is what I plan on getting next year so have been keeping an eye on them and good ones tend to sit around ?4k or a little above. From what I understand, dates hold their value a bit better than no dates. I like both versions and would be happy with either but I have a preference for the date.

 

I envy you children Zico, are both sons getting the same type watch? If different what else do you have your eye on?

 

On the date / no date sub thing, different strokes & all that.

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I envy you children Zico, are both sons getting the same type watch? If different what else do you have your eye on?

 

On the date / no date sub thing, different strokes & all that.

My plan, cash permitting, is to get a date sub for one and a GMT Master II for the other. There's 6 years between the two boys (and the youngest is 3) so I'll get plenty use out of them before giving them a watch each for their 21st. So I see it as a pretty good investment - I get to wear and enjoy the watches and then I've already paid for their 21st birthday presents!

 

And if I ever need the cash, I can sell them at minimal if no loss and the boys can have a G-Shock!

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Captain_Peacock

My plan, cash permitting, is to get a date sub for one and a GMT Master II for the other. There's 6 years between the two boys (and the youngest is 3) so I'll get plenty use out of them before giving them a watch each for their 21st. So I see it as a pretty good investment - I get to wear and enjoy the watches and then I've already paid for their 21st birthday presents!

 

And if I ever need the cash, I can sell them at minimal if no loss and the boys can have a G-Shock!

 

That sounds like a decent plan imo, hats off zico.

 

I have a fair bit of respect for G-shock, many serving at the sharp end choose them when on active service.

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That sounds like a decent plan imo, hats off zico.

 

I have a fair bit of respect for G-shock, many serving at the sharp end choose them when on active service.

Absolutely, they're great watches for the money. Even if I was totally skint, I'd still want a good watch. Although I prefer Seiko - great range and value for money.

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Captain_Peacock

Absolutely, they're great watches for the money. Even if I was totally skint, I'd still want a good watch. Although I prefer Seiko - great range and value for money.

Agreed, played 5 a side tonight so the 5 series is still is on the wirst. For me the marine masters, spring drive watches & grand seiko are all decent. Doesn't have to be swiss to earn respect from me.

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I've always said that Seiko and Citizen watches are the best ranges of watches in many aspects, allied to a reasonable price point for the vast majority of the range. Especially Seiko but Citizen have a superb range as well. Both makers have excellent automatic pieces. Seiko also have their Kinetic range and Citizen have their Eco-drive watches. They are basically the Old Firm of watch makers in that sector of the market.

 

Seiko especially have a number of iconic watches in their more current collection as well as their back catalogue. Most watch nuts are into them. A Grand Seiko or a GS Spring Drive may well be more prestigious but for me, the holy grail of Seiko watches is the Golden Tuna. I have a Prospex Tuna quartz myself which is really nice. Other 'must have' icons include the Spork ( an automatic diver ), the Arnie ( a duel display watch made popular by Arnold Schwarzenegger in various films ), the Ripley ( futuristic crap worn by Sigourney Weaver in Alien ). More recently the Monster and mini Monster diver watches.

 

The range of watches is vast. If you can't find something in Seiko or Citizen collections that you like then you can be fairly certain that you don't need a watch at all.

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Captain_Peacock

Col Robert Neville M.D I'm a fan of seiko as clearly are others here. RE the Spork, in your opinon Sinn homage or both inspired by cockpit instruments?

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Col Robert Neville M.D I'm a fan of seiko as clearly are others here. RE the Spork, in your opinon Sinn homage or both inspired by cockpit instruments?

 

Apples and pears IMO. The most obvious comparison can only be the hand-set.

 

Sinn watches have an aviation theme I suppose but the Spork is an out-and-out diver. Scuba or skindiver rated really. Certainly not a tool. I tend to think that the similar hand-set is coincidence rather than a nod to an aviation theme.

Edited by Col. Robert Neville M.D.
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Captain_Peacock

Apples and pears IMO. The most obvious comparison can only be the hand-set.

 

Sinn watches have an aviation theme I suppose but the Spork is an out-and-out diver. Scuba or skindiver rated really. Certainly not a tool. I tend to think that the similar hand-set is coincidence rather than a nod to an aviation.

 

 

Sinn are known for dive & pilot's watches (see U1, U2 & EZM). The Sinn has 200m WR & on the solid bracelet & a divers extension. The old 3.6,9 Sinn was the 657 but I think was't anti mag or tegimented the newer version (857) are & a step above IMO.

 

Point taken, is the 657/ 857 a pilot or a diver? Not sure however the spork is more of a diver than either the 657 or 857 & IMO the 857 is a step up.

 

 

I agree Helmut Sinn was a pilot, but U1, U2, EZM all great dive watches IMO (that said I haven't grown to love the lego hands on the U1)

 

The Sinn 3,6,9 version is WR rated to 200m and has a diver extension on the solid braclet, for me that's a watch you can dive with (I'm a novice,spent more than I should have but still consider deep to be 40m).

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Sinn are known for dive & pilot's watches (see U1, U2 & EZM). The Sinn has 200m WR & on the solid bracelet & a divers extension. The old 3.6,9 Sinn was the 657 but I think was't anti mag or tegimented the newer version (857) are & a step above IMO.

 

Point taken, is the 657/ 857 a pilot or a diver? Not sure however the spork is more of a diver than either the 657 or 857 & IMO the 857 is a step up.

 

 

I agree Helmut Sinn was a pilot, but U1, U2, EZM all great dive watches IMO (that said I haven't grown to love the lego hands on the U1)

 

The Sinn 3,6,9 version is WR rated to 200m and has a diver extension on the solid braclet, for me that's a watch you can dive with (I'm a novice,spent more than I should have but still consider deep to be 40m).

 

Oh you're no novice. That was some good stuff about Sinn.

 

Speaking of water resistance in watches... always a hoot. :) Unless one is actually a diver, the fascination with watch water resistancy info is something to behold and totally pointless, yet it seems to have great value to people. Oh I must have the one with the automatic helium escape valve!!!! I might find myself in the decompression chamber one day.

 

Here's what the ISO W.R. classification table has to say about your 40 metres watch ( if you had one ).

 

"Suitable for swimming, white water rafting, non-snorkeling water related work, and fishing."

 

They missed out doing the dishes then.

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Captain_Peacock

COl, re WR the bigger the better, common sense doesn't seem to apply. I've done a little bit of rec PADI diving (open / advanced open water) & I'm sure I'll never break 50m. Why a desk diver would want 1000m is beyond me.

 

I've really enjoyed your posts on this thread and you've educated me, thank you.

Edited by Captain_Peacock
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